Sorry the long story but it was a weekend I will always remember! Click on a picture for a larger view.
Video my son put together of the trip 11 minutes. Video my nephew put together of the trip.
|
|||||
|
The National
Buffalo
River has
been a
friend of
mine for
many years.
Some
20 plus
years ago we
started
visiting
this really
cool area
just south
of Harrison
Arkansas
around a gas
station and
a canoe
rental
called
Ponca.
Over the 50
outings down
into that
area I have
never faced
a weekend
like this
one.
My wife
asked my son
what he
wanted for
his 22nd
birthday. He
said I want
dad to take
me and some
friends on a
2 night
backpack and
I want to
cover at
least 12
miles.
Mothers day
is the next
day after
his
birthday.
Wow a win
win for me.
I get to go
backpacking
for 2 nights
and don't
have to pay
gas or food.
Woo Whoo
Rangers!
Weather
forecast was
watched all
the way up
to the time
we left.
Some rain
was
forecasted
but in my
opinion they
missed
Saturdays
forecast by
a long shot.
Pack weights: Marshall 29.4, Mark 48.8, Nathan 30.4, Ernie 45.6, Sam 21, Jimmy 398, Rob 42.8
Friday night
we were
supposed to
leave at
5:30 pm. Rob
called from
out front of
my
house at
5:35 and
said he had
forgotten
his food in
the fridge
at his
house. By
6pm we
were heading
down the
highway. In
Branson I
stopped for
more gas and
the station
had
someone
buying loto
tickets with
10 people
standing in
line. I left
headed for
another
gas station
with a
shorter
line. At the
next gas
station
every one
bailed out
of the
two cars and
went in and
spent a
small
fortune on
treats...I
told them
they had 2
minutes..if
you don't
they will go
on a 30
minute
shopping
spree.
Hello....!
After a
couple of
missed turns
I made we
were at the
trail head
dropping off
the load of
people and
sent them
down to make
base camp
just before
dark and
drag up
firewood. We
made a 45
minute
shuttle trip
and dropped
my truck off
at Steel
Creek on the
Buffalo
River where
we would
backpack out
to figuring
on 12 miles.
Soon
Marshall,
Sam and I
were hiking
down the
trail in
perfect
weather and
we came upon
the rest of
our group at
1st night
base camp.
The plan was
working
perfectly.
By 9:00 pm
Rob the
night owl
went to his
tent and we
never heard
another word
out of him.
Soon it
started to
slowly
sprinkle and
we all went
to our
shelters and
hunkered
down for
the night.
Through the
night it
rained and
stormed with
thunder
going from
light to
medium rain.
At daylight
the rain
stopped and
at 7am I
gave out the
call to wake
up and
get your
gear packed
we were
packing out
at 8:00 am
Saturday
morning 9
miles ahead
of
us.
After a
quick
breakfast
only cooking
was some
oatmeal we
were off
down the
trail packs
on ready for
anything.
The group
was older.
Ernie Moad
being the
youngest in
the group
but he is
well
experienced
and now
knows what
to do to
stay dry if
he wants
to...if not
he doesn't
care he is
tougher than
nails. My 22
year old
nephew
Nathan a 4.0
brain
child at
Evangel
University
came along.
Now he is
blessed with
many things
and in some
areas like
backpacking
a NOOB
(someone
that is new
to doing
what ever it
is your
doing)
so him and
Jimmy Winch
were on the
Noob side of
this trip.
Jimmy has
been on some
trips
with us but
has been
watching too
much TV and
has gotten
soft on
us...so
Jimmy get
out
and walk it
will do you
good. Not
complaining
here just
stating
facts.
We made it
down from
base camp a
short mile
to the bench
trail and
found the
trail very
over grown
and our pace
was much
slower than
it had ever
been before.
We had a
option
to take the
plan A trail
or take the
other trail
that would
knock the
miles by
half. We
opted to
take the
shorter more
walked on
trail for
poison ivy
and distance
reasons to
be
a better
match for
our group.
Down down
down we
went...2300
now down to
900 feet to
Hemmed in
Hallow
Falls. Jimmy
was having
issues going
down the
trail as
this trail
is
rough and
very slick
and was
muddy. We
made it to
the 200 foot
falls and
marveled at
them as they
had water
flowing over
them and
they were
pretty.
After a
short time
we
backpacked
on down to
our first
river
crossing.
I found my
friend the
Buffalo
River in
good shape
and up a bit
and people
floating it
in
canoes and
kayaks. It
was to low
to float the
day before.
This nice
Saturday
morning I
had a new
experience.
My nephew
dropped one
of his
hiking boots
into the
river as he
was crossing
it in knee
deep water
and Rob was
the only one
in river
shoes and he
ran
down stream
to find
it...we were
all saying
he will
never find
that boot. A
minute
later Nathan
dropped the
other Boot
and it went
down river.
I am asking
him what he
plans on
wearing out
the next 4
miles? In
about 5
minutes Rob
returns with
both pairs
of boots and
tells the
story of how
he lost the
first boot
On his way
back he sees
the
second boot
that flows
into a
swirling
pool and up
pops the
other boot
and so he
jumps
in to the
river over
his head
swims
through
river slime
about 8"
deep and
retrieves
the
lost for
ever boots.
WOW was I
shocked. I
went from
wondering
what in the
round world
was we going
to do with
no boots for
a backpacker
4 miles down
into the
wild and
here
comes the
savior Rob
with Nathans
boots. Wow
what a
relief. Rob
lost one of
his
trekking
poles to a
untimely
loaned out
death it got
bent in
half.
On to the
jumping
cliffs. Had
a nice lunch
at about
11:30 am and
the river
was alive
with canoes
and kayaks
and fun for
all. We
talked of
jumping off
the cliffs
into the
swimming
hole but
never did
it. Just a
hair cool
for it. On
to the next
river
crossing.
Now at this
time
Marshall
found a
heart shaped
rock in the
river and it
made
the trip
home for his
Mom on
mothers day.
Jimmy
learned that
slick rocks
make for a
quick dip
into the
river and 2
slips he
learned how
to swim with
a backpack
on and Ernie
was called
on to drag
him out of
the 2 foot
deep water.
Some folks
asked if
Jimmy
needed some
sugar
because they
though he
was having a
diabetic
attack but I
told them he
was fine
just a
little fear
factor
there. We
were ready
for
anything!
2 easy river
crossings
and we made
base camp in
2 hours. Had
tents up and
started to
rain. It
rained for
about 3
hours and
then quit
about 7:30
pm. During
the rain the
biolight
stove keep a
group of us
warm and
heated up
food and
even some
late start
floaters
came over to
enjoy the
warmth under
the tarp and
the
biolights
wood heat.
Marshall and
Ernie had
hammocks and
they were
camped about
300 feet
down river
from us
and we were
camped about
50 feet from
the waters
edge about 2
feet above
water level.
Rob inspired
us all to
hunt for
fire wood
and after
the night
before rain
and the
afternoon
rain all we
had was wet
wood. He
prepared a
fire and I
being a
spoon type
of
person put
him to the
challenge
and videoed
the fire
crafting. It
took quite a
while to
flame up and
then went
out. I was
ribbing him
the whole
time and he
finally said
it
wasn't
happening.
So me being
Mr. Know it
all. I
fetched some
cedar
branches and
cut
them down
and the
training
from the old
LTC taught
me to scrape
the bark off
the wood
when it was
really wet.
We also
found dry
wood in the
inner parts
of a 5"
diameter
tree
but it took
5 of us
scraping
bark and
splitting
wood to get
to dry
stuff. We
piled up
about a 2'
tall pile
and light
the match.
Aaaaah a
nice fire
was
raging... I
told
everyone I
was the king
but none
would admit
it until
after I
turned the
camera off.
Ha!
We enjoyed
the river
and around 9
pm we got a
few
sprinkles
and I went
off to my
tent.
The rain and
thunder
continued
through the
night.
Steady and
heavy. I
didn't sleep
very much
and about
every 2
hours I
would open
the door of
my tent and
shine the
870
lumens light
to take a
look at my
buddy the
river. First
2 times not
much change.
At 5
am I though
I better
check again.
THE WATER
HAD COME UP
2 FEET AND
WAS ONLY 12"
FROM
ROBS TENT!!!
I knew
Nathans tent
was a little
lower so I
shouted at
Rob and
Nathan to
grab their
gear the
water was at
their tents
THEY HAD TO
MOVE! My
buddy the
beautiful
Buffalo
River was
now a angry
torrent of
brown muddy
water
ripping past
in a furious
way.
5" of rain
had fallen
in the past
24 hours.
With in a
few minutes
we were
dressed and
in the rain
we moved our
gear up the
river
bank 8 feet
higher and
about 30
feet away
from our
first
location. No
water would
make
it up there.
As I looked
at the river
my plan of 3
easy river
crossings
and 1.5
miles
in less than
a hour we
would be
back to the
truck
VANISHED.
While I
waited for
first
light I
tried 3
times to get
a fire going
in my
biolight
with wood I
had harvest
the
night
before. It
was all so
wet even
with 3 wax
fire
starters and
a sure fire
no fire
was to be
had. I
borrowed
Nathans
stove and
heated up
some coffee
and filled
my
thermos.
Rob said
that river
will
continue to
come up and
if it
stopped
raining we
might be
able
to get out
in 24 hours
or more. We
have to
leave now. I
knew the
next river
crossing
would look
just like
the river we
were looking
out over now
but Rob was
determined
we
needed to
backpack out
at first
daylight. We
gathered and
prayed. So
we did and
came up
to that
raging river
that was now
7 feet
higher than
it was 12
hours
before. To
get a
good look we
had to walk
around a low
area and go
up on a
gravel bar
to give it a
closer
look. While
we were up
there the
dry ground
we had
walked over
to get there
was now
under 30" of
water and
when we all
knew we had
just walked
over that
and it was
now
covered with
30" of water
it sunk
in...WE WERE
NOW STRANDED
BETWEEN 2
RIVER
CROSSINGS.
STUCK! 2 of
our group
had wet
sleeping
bags and
tents,
clothes and
boots. Only
enough
food for one
more lunch.
Rob said I
have to be
home for
Mothers Day.
I said us
too. Sam's
last day of
High
School was
Monday. My
daughter and
son in law
and
grandkids
and the rest
of the
family
was going to
be at my
house. We
had to get
home.
My buddy Rob
now took a
good look at
my other
buddy the
National
Buffalo
River and
said
can we get
out another
way? I said
the BRT is
up there
somewhere we
might be
able to
bushwhack up
to it..but
there are so
many cliffs
and steep
hills. After
some looking
at
the
ViewRanger
app on my
phone we
determined a
route looked
possible
according to
the
topo lines
where just
under one
mile with
500 feet of
elevation
change a
bushwack
could
be done.
I knew we
would have
to spilt up
into two
groups.
Marshall,
Sam and
Ernie and
Rob took
my phone
with the
view ranger
app and
bushwhacked
up the mile
to the BRT.
At that time
they were to
drop their
gear and
come back
down the
mountain and
help us get
everyone
back up that
mountain to
the trail.
Yet plans
change and
Rob sent
them down
the trail
to make a
phone call
while he
made his way
back down
the mountain
with my
viewranger
gps
app.
I and Jimmy
and Nathan
were busy.
We found a
dead cedar
tree. Pulled
out my tree
saw
and I showed
them how to
find dry
wood and to
cut it up so
I worked
them hard
and we
took turns
sawing and
cutting the
limbs. We
had a nice
pile of
cedar and I
was 100%
confidant we
would have a
raging fire
and was
about to
light it
when I heard
my BEST
EVER BUDDIES
YELL. I told
Jimmy and
Nathan to
get their
gear packed
up we were
packing
out. It
wouldn't be
easy but we
would do it.
The trail
out was a
Bushwhack
and a good
handle on
map reading
and good
common sense
was
needed. YET
we made it
to the
established
trail after
a grueling
1.5 hour
walk up that
steep
Boston mountain.
Jimmy was
fighting the
frustration
of extra
weight from
a wet
backpack
and too many
TV hours and
it was tough
on him to
get up that
hill. It was
tough on all
of us as
well. Yet we
worked at
it. One foot
in front of
the other.
We must have
rested 10
times up
that 8
tenths of a
mile with
500 feet of
elevation
increase.
Now mind you 7 years ago Rob and I took a backpack with a group that had planned on backpacking
the old
river trail
and at that
time the
water was
not in flood
stage but
the ladies
in that
group said
no more
river
crossings as
they were
waste deep
at times..so
we had to
opt out and
take the
upper
trail. Thank
goodness I
had that
upper trail
in my
records and
was able to
turn that
track on so
we could
KNOW where
the trail
was and how
many miles
it would
take for us
to
get out.
Rob
started
walking
left. I
asked where
are you
going. He
said to the
truck...I
said the
truck is
that way. He
got a
concerned
look on his
face and
said I
might have
told
Marshall and
Sam and
Ernie to go
the wrong
way.!!!!!!!!!!!
6 or so
miles
of up and
down. This
upper trail
is no walk
in the park.
It was slick
and
hazardous
and muddy
and well it
was a long 6
hour
backpack
getting back
to my truck.
I put my
tracking
skills into
play and at
one stream
crossing I
determined
there was 3
peoples
shoes that
had just
gone through
there.
PRAISE GOD!
My son was
ahead of me.
He told
me later
they walked
about a mile
the wrong
way (THANKS
to my BEST
BUDDY ROB)
and yet it
didn't seem
right to him
so he pulled
out his
version of
view ranger
and
determined
they
were going
the wrong
way. Turned
around and
back where
they hit the
trail they
made a
big rock
arrow
pointing us
in the right
direction...(we
never saw it
but it was
right)
I came over
the hill to
get a gander
at my other
buddy my
truck. Sure
enough it
was
GONE! It was
raining. I
was 15
minutes late
already. I
sat there
next to the
pit
toilet
bathroom and
thought
hum..wonder
when they
will be
back. Rob
shows up
leaving
Jimmy and
Nathan up by
the road to
wait and
says where
the truck.
Well they
were
thinking of
going and
picking up
Marshalls
car and ...
He told them
it made no
sense for
them to do
that. I and
Rob had a
personal
counseling
session and
he reminded
me to keep
my cool to
remain
patient.....and
all I could
think was my
buddy "the
National
Buffalo
River" let
me down.
I just
gritted my
teeth and
felt like I
had taken a
beating when
my
son pulled
up in my
truck and
picked us
all up and
it started
raining so
hard driving
out of there
that I just
had to laugh
and
apologize
for being a
bit miffed
when even my
truck was
taken away
from me....
GRIN! What a
trip. What
adventure.
What a
memory.
I praise God
for prayer.
Yet
sometimes I
think that
people will
go off on a
tangent and
stir up a
whole lot of
grief and
worry and
have people
crying
thinking
their loved
ones
are missing
or drowned
when in
truth and
fact we were
never once
in any real
danger.
Sure we were
challenge
time and
time again.
Yet God
looked after
us. With out
HIM I
wouldn't
take your
kids across
the street.
Yet with HIM
I know HE
loves me and
will
come in and
help when He
needs to.
Yet my part
is to be
wise and use
the talents
HE has
given.
I climbed at
least 15
poles today.
Hardest day
of work in
months.
I am ready
for a break.
Mark Jones
May 11th,
2015
CLICK ON
A PICTURE
FOR A LARGER
VIEW.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Robs report on the trip.
It was an incredibly challenging trip....after being on hundreds of
campouts...even experienced outdoorsmen can make bad judgments...(Camping on the
river bank when we were having endless rain is one). We thought being 30-50 feet
away and 2-3 feet above the river level was fine...that's a lot of water to
fillup that space...and it would be in 90% of circumstances, but when unexpected
torrential rains come for 8 straight hours, things change. We learned that
safety always comes first and all the things we teach in Rangers really do
matter.
Everything that could be unexpected did happen on this trip...and thanks to
great fire-starting training, we managed to get a fire started in the worst
possible conditions, 10 hours of rain...Yes, you do have to be prepared and have
fire-starting material with you, and yes...it takes lots of time to prepare for
your fire and only using dry wood from the center of a dead cedar stick.
Also...teaching everyone to look out for each other, and that a TEAM can
accomplish what others can't matters tremendously. Working together, and
thinking thru things in a harsh situation leads to wise decisions.
Teaching the boys to be prepared, and that proper clothing, proper tent set-up,
and proper planning can make the difference between a horrible experience, and
one that is challenging, but enjoyable. Please remember, it's not just another
lesson you are teaching...its real life survival.
All the training we do is really important. And teaching these skills can save
lives. The outdoors provides a place to get closer to God...but as with
everything in life, we have to be responsible.
We faced a potentially bad situation, and came out with a wonderful story to
tell for a lifetime. I will never forget being in a deep sleep and hearing Mark
Jones yelling..".Rob,Rob...get up...the river has flooded and is almost at your
tent." In the 5 min it took me to pack my stuff, get rain gear on, and get out
of my tent the water was already two inches into my tent...much longer and Rob
would have been two miles down river :)
NOTE: The Buffalo river came up from 30 inches below the low water bridge at
Ponca to 7 foot above the bridge....Here is the note from the river service from
yesterday the water was STILL UP..
"
May 11, 2015 7:00 AM - The water level at Ponca is presently @ SEVEN FEET over
the low water bridge. That's big water and, of course, flood stage. This means
the National Park Service currently has the river closed to rental boats. The
CFS is currently @ 12,000+, whereas on a normal day of floating you're looking
at more like 350-400 CFS
In the end, we rose above the challenge, figured a way out, and will never
forget the experience.
Take your boys backpacking...its a life changing experience....We had a group
prayer at 6am on Sunday morning for Gods deliverance...and Jimmy was the one
that gave us the idea. God can work in boys lifes, you never know who's life you
can change thru time spent in Rangers!
Rob